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Sustainable agriculture, with a future - Artigo editado na revista "Terra-Mãe".

Managed by the Sousa Cunhal family, whose origins go back to the Praça Cunhal farming business of the mid-19th century, the Freixo do Meio estate is one of the Alentejo’s largest organic farming projects, producing and processing turkeys, free-range pork, lamb and veal from native breeds, as well as olive oil and fruit and vegetable products, all by organic and, above all, sustainable methods.

The idea of converting the Freixo do Meio estate, near Montemor-o-Novo, to organic farm production arose in the early 1990s, as part of a strategic plan for the various Sousa Cunhal enterprises, explains Alfredo Cunhal Sendim, manager of this and other farms within the group, during a detailed guided visit to the estate.

"Given that national farming policy has been a series of zig-zags for the last 20 years, we decided that we had to do something different, to define a strategy for the medium-to-long term", he declares. It is a strategy that embraces differentiation (getting away from monoculture), industrialisation (being in control of the processing of the products produced), and coexistence (having the greatest possible number of products and activities), all in an extensive and sustainable form; in other words through organic production methods.

"Farming is something made possible by Nature, and cannot run counter to Nature's laws."

Diversification of the estate's activities started in 1990, by identifying the break-even points and reducing costs, the objective being to reduce reliance on subsidies. "We decided we wanted to be competitive by differentiation, and not by the cost of the products", and to try to "be worthy of our heritage, to provide employment and to create wealth not just locally but for the country as a whole," says Alfredo Cunhal, adding: "the objective is also to leave a legacy for the future."

At the same time, the estate took the decision to introduce a policy of vertical integration by creating the brand name "Herdade do Freixo do Meio", in order to take control of every stage of the chain: production, processing, distribution and even marketing.

The estate's products are sold on site, but are also available at two grocery stores in the markets of Montemor-o-Novo and Evora, as well as through Biocoop (the organic food cooperative in Lisbon), at El Corte Inglês supermarkets and other outlets.

For the investment required to install the meat processing and vegetable preparation units for fourth stage production (washed and packed, ready to eat), they resorted to people from the local villages, in particular women aged over 40, who had the greatest difficulty in finding work. "We are thereby fulfilling another aim which we set ourselves right from the start, to continue the philosophy of the family's social responsibility in providing local employment", says the manager.

There are nine employees on the farming side, 11 in the meat and vegetable processing unit, 2 in administration and management, and one who works on quality control.

"Organic farming" is a modern-day expression to describe what were, in fact, the age-old ways of agricultural production: integration with the environment, extensification and diversification. For this reason, at Freixo do Meio "we decided to remain within the limits of what we could produce ourselves; we don't buy anything in, and only use what we produce here."

Alfredo Cunhal explains in more detail: "we try and do a bit of everything that we are able to do on the estate, and, for that, we are reviving the traditions of what was always done in the Alentejo."

Even the smoking of the sausages in the processing unit is done by using traditional rules (although what was the old house chimney-place is now one large room converted into a smokehouse), as are the recipes for linguiça and other sausages, the red pepper paste, and other specialities bearing the Herdade do Freixo do Meio seal.

Despite the successes of the past few years, Alredo Cunhal stresses one important thing: "The wager is far from being won; this is a very big adventure. I have no doubts at all about the strategy which we have adopted, but I do in relation to our capacity to implement it well every minute of the day. The investment, principally in know-how, is very high, but we are confident", he affirms.

On its 1900 hectares, Freixo do Meio has two reservoirs and several small ponds to provide water for the animals.

The estate has around 2000 pigs (180 sows) of the local Alentejan breed, of which between 100 and 200 (which forage free-range under the oak plantations) are exported directly to the Spanish market, and more than 4000 free-range black turkeys which graze under the oak and cork trees – the local word for this being "montado"; of these, over 3000 are sold at Christmas, with 1500 going to Holland.

In addition to this, they produce fruit and vegetables (carrots, lettuce, etc.) which are cut, washed and packed on the estate, as well as organic rice and wheat and buckwheat flour.

Reverting to the estate's livestock, Freixo do Meio has suckler cows of the native Barrosã breed, and around 4000 black and white Merino ewes for traditional "montado" lamb production. The wool from these is sent away to be made into woollen vests in the Serra da Estrela region in central Portugal, or slippers, berets and gloves (near Fátima), and the lamb skins are cured in Alcanena in a chromium-free process so that the skins remain softer.

Pine nuts, wine and olive oil are products that have recently been added to the Freixo do Meio 'menu'.

In order to try and reconcile tradition with innovation, the estate offers a home-delivery service for the fresh meat which it produces, processes and packs. Delivery is available throughout Portugal (including Madeira and the Azores), though there is a minimum order of one case, of variable weight depending on the type of meat. Orders received by 5.00pm are processed the following day, and local deliveries start in the early morning.

The processing unit installed in the estate yard processes around 15 cattle, 20 pigs, 40 lambs and 40 turkeys a week, into a combination of fresh and frozen cuts and charcuterie.

Among the products are: fresh veal from the native Barrosã and Mertolenga breeds, pork from the black Alentejan pigs, lamb from the black and white Merino breed, kid from the Serpentina breed of goat, and black turkey, as well as fresh meat specialities such as mixed kebabs of veal and pork, burgers and mince, meatballs, traditional Alentejan sausages, charcuterie products, olive oil, whole olives, olive paté, wine, pine nuts, cereals, turkey eggs, purées and pastes from peppers and tomatoes, freshly prepared vegetables, wild mushrooms, rice and dried tomatoes.

The whole process of production, processing and distribution is monitored in its totality by an external control and certification organisation, accredited both nationally and internationally, which guarantees a high level of food safety and intrinsic quality as well as satisfying the EU regulations which apply to organic production.

The estate is also currently undergoing assessment and certification for the following: EMAS (European Environmental certificate), FSC (the WWF's forestry certification system), Extensity (sustainable standards in extensive livestock production) and One Planet Living (the WWF and Bioregional sustainability system).

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ALFREDO CUNHAL SENDIM runs Sousa Cunhal SGPS, the holding company of the Freixo do Meio estate, along with his mother and three brothers. With a degree in animal science, he has also studied agricultural economics in Portugal, Spain and Greece, and is now the principal director of the farming, livestock and processing enterprises at Freixo do Meio, his brother Paulo being responsible for the administrative and financial aspects. He is 39 years old, has been married for nine years, and has two sons. He has been a trustee of rural organisations for 15 years, and is currently Vice-President of Interbio, the cross-professional association of organic farming.

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SUSTAINABILITY REPORT

Organic meat from "Herdade do Freixo do Meio" is the first product sold on the Portuguese market to carry a summary of its sustainability report, which contains facts about different aspects of the company and its economic, social and environmental goals.

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THE FREIXO DO MEIO ESTATE IS ALSO PLANNING AN ECO-TOURISM PROJECT, CURRENTLY UNDER EVALUATION, WHICH INCLUDES THE RESTORATION OF SEVERAL FARMHOUSES AND TWO WATERMILLS.

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Spring Gathering

On the 25th April this year, the Freixo do Meio estate will again open its doors to the community, repeating last year's successful "Spring Gathering" experiment. In 2006 the gathering, with its free admission and invitation to "spend a day in the montado" (between 9.00am and 7.00pm), attracted around 2000 visitors, "with almost no publicity at all, and it was a huge success. We have therefore decided to repeat and extend the scope of the Gathering this year", explains Ana Fonseca, who accompanied us on our visit to the estate and who is one of those responsible for the event.

As well as sheepdog trials and displays (showing the dogs working with turkeys, pigs and sheep) which drew so many people to Freixo do Meio last year, this year's Gathering will include hot-air balloon ascents, walks, mountain-bike trails, hot and cold food outlets including the estate's own products, a demonstration of wool spinning and of acorns, exhibitions and sales of work from local artists, guided tours of the vegetable and meat processing units, and demonstrations of LandArt, amongst other activities especially aimed at children.

If you wish, you are also welcome to pack your picnic baskets and enjoy a picnic in the shade of a fine old holm-oak or a cork tree by the side of one of the reservoirs or ponds on the Freixo do Meio estate.

Translation: James Joicey - August 2007